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Stockholm at Night: Trädgården

Sweden has something very special going on here. Upon crossing the threshold of the massive outdoor music venue/gallery/club/bar complex Trädgården, you know you are in for a good time. Situated underneath the massive Skanstull Bridge (Skanstullsbron), this is the number one nightlife destination in Stockholm for live music and DJ performances.

We first visited on a Friday night to catch a set from the much-hyped Swedish psychedelic rock band Dungen. I should actually say “attempted to visit” because by the time we arrived (7 p.m.) the venue was filled to capacity and about 200 people stood in line with hopes of getting in. Also worth noting is that the venue holds 1750 people, so needless to say there is a lot of demand. We decided to wander elsewhere for the evening while listening to the last of the band’s set reverberating of the arches of the bridge overhead.

Luckily we learned from our mistakes and showed up earlier the following evening. Another bonus of arriving early is free entry; as the night goes on the entry prices raise, so get in early!

On the bill are a number of DJs and a video premier. Oh yeah, they screen films here too. The surprises are endless (upscale vegetarian restaurant Växthuset occupies one end of the complex while a Vietnamese sandwich cart and burger stand modeled after In-N-Out serves the other). Upon entering the festive space Jaime made the comment: “Could you imagine if this was in New York? It would be impossible to get in, ever.” So I guess now I understand the line!

But what about the drinks? Something needs to be said here. Alcohol in Sweden in expensive compared with other European countries, and the Swedish government has tight control over what kind of drinks are available for purchase and consumption. Grocery stores and markets cannot sell beer with high alcohol content, or wine, or liquor. If you want any of this or simply feel like drinking a real beer, you must visit one of the government operated Systembolaget stores. These outlets have strict daytime hours, armed guards, and no coolers. You can buy beer at a grocery store (as I did many times)… but it will be warm, pricey, and weak (2.8% – 3.5%).

With these tight controls and Scandinavia being an expensive destination, drinks at Trädgården are not cheap. Expect to spend about 75 SEK ($9) for a bottle of beer. Budgets are crucial and important, but splurging for a fun experience is more than acceptable once in a while and this splurge is definitely worth it! Hammarby Slussväg 2, Stockholm.

Scandinavian Eats and Treats

Published by thealternativeatlas

Scandinavia is often stereotyped as a pricey travel destination, especially when it comes to food. Restaurants are expensive, food markets are expensive, cafes are expensive, grocery stores are expensive, even fast food is expensive. So what are we going to do about this? Compile a list of deliciously cheap restaurants, food markets, cafes, grocery stores and fast food of course! We’re turning Scandinavia into ScandiSAVINa! Ba-dum tss! These are our suggestions for tasty vegetarian eats and treats without breaking the bank.

Restaurant: GRØD

~~The Alternative Atlas~~ number one pick for so many reasons. This Copenhagen-based porridge shop (yes, porridge shop) strives to redefine the concept of porridge and show the world that porridge can be delicious, delicate, and versatile. That last sentence was taken from their website, and is also the most times I’ve used the word “porridge” ever. Combine that with a stark minimalist interior space with raw woods and we have something magical… we only spent four days in Copenhagen and ate here twice! The first time at their original Nørrebro location and a second time we stumbled across their stall at the Torvehallerne food market and couldn’t resist. Jægersborggade 50, 2200 København N.

Food Market: TORVEHALLERNE

More than 80 shops make up this indoor/outdoor food market in Downtown Copenhagen. We found smørrebrød (traditional open-faced Danish sandwiches) at the Hallernes Smørrebrød stall and were thrilled that even this famously meat-based dish had a vegetarian option. Frederiksborggade 21, 1360 København K.

Cafe: LAGKAGEHUSET

The mission of this small Swedish chain of cafes is to “revolutionize the experience of bread”. I’m into that! Just take a look at these pastries… who wouldn’t be into that?

Grocery Store: GOODSTORE

This grocer sells 100% vegetarian and vegan products and has two locations in Stockholm.

There is a park across the street lined with AstroTurf where locals hang out and soak up the sun… we sat down for a picnic and took full advantage of the beautiful afternoon.

Fast Food: MAX

You order from a machine. It’s super cheap. They have delicious veggie-burgers and onion rings that put American chains to shame. What else needs to be said here? Scandinavia has it made with MAX.

London Visual Art Guide: 9 Must-See Spots

Published by thealternativeatlas

London has so many famous art museums and galleries – and entry to all of them is completely free. I can’t get over this. These museums are all institutions which are held in the highest regard (probably bordering on religious fervor) and could only be described as “sacred” for any lover of art. London is also brimming with contemporary visual art galleries well-known for exhibiting the latest and greatest, and they are all free! Take advantage! I originally tried to make this list highlighting the best 5 free art venues around the city, but that was impossible… there are just too many amazing spaces. These are our top 9 must-see visual art spots in London.

1) BEERS

This is ~~The Alternative Atlas~~ top pick for so many reasons. A pristine small gallery space in Shoreditch with a great name and an even greater show program. 1 Baldwin St, London EC1V 9NU.

2) The Tate Modern

Too good for words… but the images speak volumes. Bankside, London SE1 9TG.

3) Marlborough Fine Art

Representing prominent international artists since 1946, this gallery has locations all over the world. We visited their Chelsea location on our last visit to New York; it was a highlight of our trip then and it is a highlight now! 6 Albemarle St, London W1S.

4) White Cube

We visited the Mason’s Yard branch and saw an excellent exhibition of work by Larry Bell. This gallery shows renowned contemporary artists and is often subject to controversy, but I’m way too busy looking at the artwork to pay any attention to that. 144-152 Bermondsey St, London SE1 3TQ.

5) The Saatchi Gallery

Stunning contemporary art space. We covered this beautiful gallery here. Duke Of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, London SW3 4RY.

6) National Portrait Gallery

Opened in 1856, this was the first portrait gallery in the world. Obviously they know what they are doing! St. Martin’s Pl, London WC2H 0HE.

7) Bernard Jacobson Gallery

Located on the same street as the previously mentioned White Cube, this gallery is a main dealer of British and international modern and contemporary art. We saw an amazing show of American abstract expressionist Robert Motherwell. Usually you have to pay to see Motherwell paintings, right? 28 Duke Street St. James’s, London, SW1Y 6AG.

8) Proof

This gallery rules! Located along Brick Lane among the street art and vintage shops, this gallery specializes in Lowbrow and Alternative. It was founded by artists and it is run by artists. Long live love! 26 Cheshire St, London E2 6EH.

9) The National Gallery

This palatial complex houses one of the greatest collections of paintings in the world. It had to be mentioned somewhere. Trafalgar Square, London WC2N 5DN.

Sweden in the Sun: the Stockholm Archipelago

Published by thealternativeatlas

Sweden’s capital is situated among 24,000 smaller nearby islands that are collectively known as the Stockholm Archipelago. This landscape is beautiful and diverse; the larger islands closer to the city are punctuated with stately homes and scenic inlets, and farther out into the Baltic Sea are countless tiny and often uninhabited islands.

So what are we going to do here? Go out on a boat and explore them!

There is a ferry service that connects these islands named Waxholmsbolaget.

These large boats operate like a taxi service, and carry passengers across the islands at regular intervals. All you have to do is climb aboard, buy a ticket, and watch the Baltic go by.

The locals encouraged us to leave early in the morning and travel farther out into the Archipelago, where the islands are lesser traveled and have remained largely untouched.

We decided to spend the day exploring Grinda and swimming in our underwear… we fit right in with the Swedish sunbathers who didn’t seem to mind Chris pretending the water wasn’t cold while splashing around in his Hanes. We’re from the desert, we have an excuse!

After disembarking on this small island populated by beaches and intimate pastures it is impossible not to feel that we’re kids and it’s summer camp so let’s run around and have fun! vibe.

We were thrilled to find that the tickets are affordable (Sweden is stereotyped as an expensive travel destination) and we spent 360SEK ($42) for the entire day… not bad for a priceless adventure and beautiful daytrip while visiting Stockholm.

Getting Around in London: Do’s and Don’uts

Published by thealternativeatlas

London is a BIG city. We spent over two weeks here and it feels like we barely scratched the surface. There are lots of different ways to get around in this daunting metropolis; buses, cabs, bikes, pedestrians and the TfL Overground all share the roads, but the primary method of transportation for locals and visitors alike is the infamous London Underground.

DO: Take the Underground

Known simply as the Tube, this sprawling underground rail network connects everything and services the boroughs surrounding the city center. Regardless of their station in life, everyone sits (or stands shoulder-to-shoulder) in the crowded commute on the Tube, and you should too. We used this metro service daily and never ran into trouble (on one occasion a friendly platform officer gave us a few pence out of his pocket so we had enough money to buy the proper ticket).

We were endlessly impressed by the sheer volume and frequency of the service. If you arrived on the platform just in time to see the last person squeeze in before the train speeds off, no need to panic because the next train will arrive in seconds.

^^^Jaime searches for Whitechapel station. No relation to the band.

DO: Visit Iconic Stations

London transportation centers are things of beauty. Make sure to visit King’s Cross station (of Harry Potter fame) and visit platform 9 3/4…

^^^…so you can get a really cool photo like this! How much does the photo cost? IT’S FREE! Who’s atlas is this? ~~The Alternative Atlas~~!

^^^aaaannnnddd they have an awesome Cornish Pasty shop inside!

DO: Walk

London is pedestrian-friendly enough where a short distance is always walkable and some of our best afternoons were spent wandering through the imperial streets and soaking up the city sights. Any longer distance travel is always serviced by the Tube if you aren’t feeling up to the trek.

DO: Take the Bus

The iconic double-decker bus is a great way to get an elevated view of the city. The metro and bus ticketing system is sophisticated, and the single journey fare fluctuates depending on how far you travel, so we decided to purchase Oyster cards (sold at all Tube stations and also in corner stores) which are blue credit cards which you scan upon entry to the Tube platforms and buses. Since we were taking multiple daily trips on the Tube we bought the unlimited travel weekly pass, which gets you – yup, you guessed it! – unlimited travel for one week. You can ride the Tube and the bus with the Oyster card, the price is the same.

DON’T: Take Black Cabs

Most travel guides celebrate Londons infamous black cabs, but unless you have a lot of money to burn you should avoid them, and probably avoid budget travel guides in general. Check this guy out, he looks totally miserable. Anyways life is short so we should stop talking about don’ts and start talking about don’uts!

DONUT: Crosstown Donuts!

This gourmet donut staple has outlets everywhere, including the entrance to King’s Cross. What flavor is that one there? Oh yes, Crème Brûlée of course.

Don’t let me get away with endlessly hyping up the Tube like this, because like everything man-made, it’s not perfect. The trades unions went on strike TWICE during out stay and chaos ensued… London literally shut down as Tube service halted and protests broke out across the city (Jaime snapped this photo of an empty Underground walkway and was contacted by a news agency during the strike to use the image on their report). London is one of the few cities of its size which doesn’t have an all-night or late-night service schedule, and the trains usually stop running around midnight. There are currently plans for adding a late-night weekend service (hence the strikes) so make sure to check out the metro service website if you plan on staying out.

London-for-Free: The Saatchi Gallery

Published by thealternativeatlas

We visited a lot of galleries and museums in London, and one of the finest is the infamous Saatchi Gallery. It just so happens that this is the only completely free-entry contemporary art museum of its size in the entire world. So what does this mean for art lovers like ourselves? Do we get to indulge in monumental works by world famous AND emerging artists side-by-side AND hang out in an insanely beautiful exhibition space AND we get in for free??? Yes, yes, yes, and yes!

The Saatchi Gallery has been defining and redefining the way we encounter contemporary art for 25 years, and we spent an afternoon exploring its two new exhibitions: Dead: A Celebration of Mortality and Pangea II: New Art From Africa and Latin America.

^^^I am particularly psyched about the Dead show; imagine my excitement upon seeing advertisements throughout the city depicting a schoolboy playing leapfrog in a graveyard… Yes! I’m so into it! That kid can play on my grave anytime!

^^^One of my favorite pieces by Terence Koh, The Camel was God, the Camel was Shot.

The Pangea II show is equally amazing; highlighting marginalized artists from Africa and Latin America.

^^^Everything Must Go installation by Jean-François Boclé featuring 97,000 blue plastic bags.

^^^Richard Wilson, 20:50. This permanent installation floods the bottom level of the gallery with used sump seed oil. The distinct smell of the oil permeates the entire floor!

The gallery is located at Duke Of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, London SW3 4RY. We took the tube to Sloane Square and it is a 5 minute walk from there. After closing we wandered through the pristine surrounding neighborhood of Chelsea, with it’s rock-n-roll turned business reputation. This neighborhood, made famous as the stomping ground for 1960s artists and musicians like The Beatles and The Rolling Stones has grown up into a posh neighborhood, full of beautiful homes, fancy shops, restaurants and business men in sleek suits.

Alternative Copenhagen: Christiania

Published by thealternativeatlas

Before flying into Denmark we spent some serious time binge-watching travel videos on youtube – this is usually how we figure out the currency and learn a few local phrases (hello, thank you, where is the wine, etc.) and get an idea as to what we should expect upon arrival.

It seems like every Copenhagen travel guide is enamored with Christiania: a self-proclaimed autonomous community in the borough of Christianshavn, which is easy walking distance from the Copenhagen city center. The spirit of this place is well-illustrated in their simple mission statement:

The objective of Christiania is to create a self-governing society whereby each and every individual holds themselves responsible over the wellbeing of the entire community. Our society is to be economically self-sustaining and, as such, our aspiration is to be steadfast in our conviction that psychological and physical destitution can be averted. -Jacob Ludvigsen, 1971

As altruistic as the motto sounds, this community is often surrounded by controversy. It is hailed by some Danes as a utopia, and is seen by others as a haven for junkies where illegal substances are unregulated and sold openly. Despite the widespread stereotype of Christiania as a thriving druggie commune, the people have developed their own set of rules independent of the Danish government. The rules forbid stealing, violence, guns, knives, bulletproof vests, hard drugs and wearing bikers’ colors. There is also a restriction on cars and motorcycles, and photography is strictly prohibited in certain areas (especially the cannabis-friendly “Green Light Zone”). Visitors are likely to be thrown out if seen taking photos, so needless to say there are no images of camouflage-draped hash stands… but I managed to get a few good photos and was delighted to see a portrait piece by hometown hero El Mac on a wall behind a worn-out building (the featured image at the top of this post – Mac lived/worked in Phoenix for years and painted plenty of murals downtown). As all art is subjective I found the execution and condition of this mural to be an appropriate metaphor for the community as a whole.

There is definitely a strong central american street vibe here; complete with heavy use of bright primary colors, unpaved roads weaving between converted house/bars, and shirtless old transients lounging in the sun and looking for a light.

^^^We visited Christiania on a beautiful sunny afternoon and did what we do best: took in the surroundings, made some friends, and of course stumbled across a killer food market inside of a warehouse! Welcome to PapirØen Street Food Market, where locals get lunch and soak up the incredible view of downtown Copenhagen. If heaven isn’t a sunny sea-side food market, then I don’t want to go!

^^^Is that a bedazzled cow hanging from the roof? Yup… okay now I’m hungry!

^^^After eating your own body weight in smørrebrød (a traditional Danish open-faced sandwich) you can collapse in a lounge chair by the water and admire the views of scenic Nyhavn and the ultra mod Skuespilhuset theater.

^^^Despite the hype we enjoyed ourselves and spent a relaxing afternoon wandering around the canals, tire-swinging in the park, and being repeatedly mistaken for locals (a great feeling!). Christiania isn’t everybody’s cup of tea, but upon entering it feels like you stepped into a non-partisan countryside town… which makes a nice contrast to the tidy city of Copenhagen.

Copenhagen Pride!

Published by thealternativeatlas

Today was our first day in Copenhagen, and we set out this morning with no idea what the day would bring. Should we rent a bike? Maybe we should get familiar with the currency? Is anything going on downtown? Oh wow it looks like something is going on today… Copenhagen Pride! A free festival dedicated to the LGBTQ community, Pride is a massive parade that promotes and makes visible the Danish LGBTQ members. The quaint downtown area was swarmed with loving and supportive crowds drinking beer and champagne and dancing in the streets. It looks like we arrived on a good day!

^^^So many beautiful people strutting their stuff… get it girl!

^^^Do I recognize her from Downton Abbey?

^^^The crowd had so much positive energy… which of course immediately translated into even more sassiness from the proud LGBTQ community members.

^^^Who’s got two thumbs and is a Grade-A badass? This dude.

^^^Everybody was included in the crowd participation and interaction.

We also met an American/Swedish couple that insisted on buying us drinks as we stood together in the crowd and cheered. So many beautiful and positive people everywhere sharing an energy of communal acceptance… what a wonderful first day in Denmark! I wonder what will happen tomorrow…

5 Must-See London Markets

Published by thealternativeatlas

This city could be famous simply for its markets selling everything from fresh produce, bread and cheese to ready-made food, flowers, and vintage finds. Let’s leave out all that stuff about London’s status as a world cultural capital and leading global city for over two millennia… we’re going to talk about the drool-worthy markets. Who has time to visit a world class museum when there is a guy serving caramelized plantains from a stall over there? London is home to some massive markets that set up on the weekends (and some weekdays) that cater specifically to your inner foodie and vintage fashionista needs. With so many options and so many markets, how does one choose? Here we present our top 5 based on food/fashion/art selection, vibe, and people-watching opportunities. All are ~~Alternative Atlas~~ approved!

1) Broadway Market

This has to be at the top of the list. The market is located in Hackney in an adorable neighborhood… I got a great feeling from being here. The market is open on Saturdays from 9-5 when the street is closed and the stalls are open!

There is a really relaxed and cool vibe here; it caters to a younger crowd and spills out into a park where you can sit and enjoy your delicious foodie finds.

The focus here is definitely on food; we split a dish of vegan paella, a fig and honey sourdough pizza, and coconut water (drank from a coconut, of course). The coconut stand was especially fun: they took our photo and posted it on their Instagram page.

If you want to visit a market where the locals hang out, this is it. Broadway Market, London E8 4QJ.

2) Colombia Road Flower Market

In my head, a flower market is a very dainty affair. There are beautiful bouquets arranged in orderly rows being sold by very polite old ladies in matching floral outfits. The Colombia Road Flower Market is the opposite of that. It is a huge collection of stalls run by gruff old men (usually shirtless) shouting their prices and 2-for-1 deals to the passers-by.

After walking through the market I was overcome by this this “what did I just witness?” feeling… I suppose it can be shocking to hear so many curse words being yelled in various English accents to describe a selection of flowers. “Too forra tenna! Too forra tenna! I’m givin this foockin theng away now come on!”

Certainly the Londoners know this is a steal because they come here in droves and leave carrying massive bouquets; the whole scene is pretty surreal and shouldn’t be missed. Make sure to make this part of your Sunday in London. Columbia Rd, London E2 7RG.

3) Borough Market

This market is one of the largest and oldest in London, and specializes in British artisanal baked goods, dairy, and locally-sourced meats and fish.

There are some awesome stalls here with some equally awesome cheeses. I bought a small bit of Stilton from the L’Ubriaco (which translates to “drunk cheese”) stall. After ordering, the man said “Be careful, this is a delicate cheese. You might cry. I cry every time.”) I love these guys.

Also, it is encouraged that you drink wine while perusing the stalls, so of course Jaime ordered a glass of Prosecco immediately.

Lastly, I found my favorite beer of all time here: Boon Oude Geuze Mariage Parfait. I’m sure I cried then, because a man nearby asked me what was so special about this particular beer. I can’t remember what I said, but obviously I was convincing because he bought a bottle as well.

Did I mention that a bakery school also operates from here? The market is open Wednesday through Saturday. 8 Southwark Strett, London, SE1 1TL.

4) Sunday Upmarket

Located near Brick Lane, the vibe here is a mix between funky and uber cool, and this is definitely a place where you will find hipster beard grooming tools and WWII army surplus side by side.

As well as fashion stalls, this market has an incredible selection of street food vendors. The best part? The free samples of course! Make sure to walk around before deciding what to buy.

The food is very affordable; we bought a huge plate of Venezuelan black bean arepas for less than £5. We also bought fried plantains, shelled nuts, and a Chinese vegetable baozi bun. Woah is that a bunch of Cholula down there?

There is a lot to see here and the market is one of several that runs along Brick Lane… Sunday Upmarket, The Vintage Market, Boiler House, The Tea Rooms, and the Backyard Market are all part of the larger Truman Markets. Old Spitalfields and Petticoat Lane are also iconic London markets that are within walking distance. Ely’s Yard, The Old Truman Brewery, London E1 6QL.

5) Brick Lane Market

This London staple operates every Sunday and hosts a wide assortment of bargain vintage stalls and bric-a-brac. If you can handle the crowds it’s a great time.

There is a focus on fashion here, so expect some prime people-watching!

The market starts in the heart of the Bangladeshi community and runs past the Truman Brewery, so you can easily see several markets in one day. 91 Brick Lane, London E1 6QR.

Travel with Diabetes 101: Insulin Care

Published by thealternativeatlas

There are only a few things that a diabetic must have at all times: meter and test strips, syringe, lancet, a sugary treat in case of emergency, and insulin. All of those items travel well except for insulin, which is tricky because heat kills its effectiveness. A normal vial of insulin will spend 90% of its life in the refrigerator. One must be prepared to face a few realities while planning a backpacking trip… such as the lack of a fridge in most accommodations like hostels and budget hotels. So how is a diabetic supposed to keep the insulin cold? There are a few creative solutions, but none are as effective as I would like. I once filled a sink with water and left the insulin vials in there along with some cold bottles of beer to keep them safe from the Venice summer heat. That’s some creative problem solving! Will I get in trouble if I post a picture of MacGyver on here? Luckily, on this trip I managed to find a really economical solution…

The FRIO insulin cooling wallet. I swear I do not get anything for plugging this product, I just love it and it is a lifesaver. Jaime found it at a CVS pharmacy before we left Arizona. It’s a simple two-piece wallet that holds 8 vials of my insulin. At the start of this trip I performed (and camped) at TechFest metal music festival in the English countryside for four days. Obviously there was no access to a fridge, so I used my Frio to keep my stash nice and cold. The wallet is reusable, activated by submerging in water, and it stays cold for about 45 hours each time. I once turned my umbrella upside down and left it out to collect water, then put the Frio in there to recharge. I wonder what would’ve happened if I had managed to put some bottles of beer in there as well? There are tiny little crystals in the pouch that turn to gel and become cold when set in water. How metaphysical does that product description sound? Keep that insulin cold for when you need it, like after eating fried plantains at a street food market in London.

Interestingly, there are a few companies that manufacture battery-operated cooling units designed specifically for holding vials of insulin, but I found them to be expensive and more suited for traveling inside a suitcase than a backpack. Also, the Frio is the only insulin cooling wallet endorsed by MacGyver! I swear I’ll post some pictures of him soon…